OUR LOCAL CLIMATE - how it affects what we grow.
Gardening books and seed packets have to offer advice which is reasonably OK wherever you are in Britain. As you might expect, it is most suitable for areas in the Midlands like, say, Leicestershire. But we aren't in the Midlands, we're down her in the bottom right hand corner, closer to Paris than we are to Yorkshire. Can we adapt our gardening to make it fit more accurately with the conditions we face in Ashford?
Yes, we can. However, each year is different and one of the features of Kent is that the temperatures, especially in the winter, can vary a lot from year to year. So these guidelines are just that - guidelines -and you will always find something that varies unexpectedly and throws out your plans. That's the way of gardening, Whether you are on an allotment or growing vegetables in a kitchen garden.
The Met Office has a very detailed and informative website with past records, climate summaries and various forecasts. To go there click here.
Yes, we can. However, each year is different and one of the features of Kent is that the temperatures, especially in the winter, can vary a lot from year to year. So these guidelines are just that - guidelines -and you will always find something that varies unexpectedly and throws out your plans. That's the way of gardening, Whether you are on an allotment or growing vegetables in a kitchen garden.
The Met Office has a very detailed and informative website with past records, climate summaries and various forecasts. To go there click here.
NOT AS WARM AS YOU MIGHT EXPECT
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Though Ashford is a long way south, it isn't as mild as counties further west, such as Sussex or Hampshire. It may come as a surprise to hear that even Tenterden is markedly milder. Ashford is more exposed to cold winds from the east, and especially to northerly and northeasterly winds, which sweep down from cold regions and are funneled by the Stour Gap, the deep valley between the Downs through which the road passes to Canterbury.
It is these cold winds, rather than heavy snow, that give gardeners the most problems and damage the most plants. |
Heavy snow is spectacular but does little damage to the kitchen garden or allotment.
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The weather round Ashford is often quite mild till as late as Christmas, and some years there is no frost until late in October. Don't be lulled into a false sense of security, however; the coldest weather does not usually come till after Christmas, and even a mild January may be followed by bitter weather in February. Iron frosts in March may follow mild spells earlier on, so it pays to keep less hardy plants well protected till late in spring.
COLD WINDS ROUND EASTER. Easter is, of course, the original "movable feast", and can occur any time from late March to late April. The cold winds that damage young plants - especially freshly planted out brassicas and sweet peas - usually occur around mid April, and we seem to get a few days of these dry, damaging easterlies each spring.
To avoid damage to young plants at this time of year, make sure they are well "hardened off" before planting out in the exposed conditions of your allotment. When you've grown them on yourself, you'll know how much they've been protected. You can gradually increase their exposure to cold and wind over at least a week, before planting out. Plants you buy at the market or garden centre will probably have been kept under cover and may well be much too lush to survive planting out straight away, even if the weather isn't too bad. To be on the safe side, give bought-in veg plants, even of hardy types like cabbage, a slow, gentle introduction to garden conditions, even popping them into a shed or greenhouse overnight if very severe weather is forecast. Remember, back gardens are generally more sheltered than allotments.
Of course, don't give these plants too much protection - otherwise you'll make them more vulnerable as they become 'soft', with lush leaves and weak stems.
To avoid damage to young plants at this time of year, make sure they are well "hardened off" before planting out in the exposed conditions of your allotment. When you've grown them on yourself, you'll know how much they've been protected. You can gradually increase their exposure to cold and wind over at least a week, before planting out. Plants you buy at the market or garden centre will probably have been kept under cover and may well be much too lush to survive planting out straight away, even if the weather isn't too bad. To be on the safe side, give bought-in veg plants, even of hardy types like cabbage, a slow, gentle introduction to garden conditions, even popping them into a shed or greenhouse overnight if very severe weather is forecast. Remember, back gardens are generally more sheltered than allotments.
Of course, don't give these plants too much protection - otherwise you'll make them more vulnerable as they become 'soft', with lush leaves and weak stems.
HOTTER DRIER SUMMERS - but some bursts of very wet weather.
The summer of 2012 was exceptionally wet everywhere in the UK. But in Kent, it was no wetter than a fairly ordinary summer in, say, Wales or Cornwall. what gardeners really noticed was how things which usually grow reasonably well, grew much, much , better. Despite the cool temperatures and the relative lack of sun, results for most crops were exceptionally good. What this really highlights is how dry our summers usually are. In fact, only parts of East Anglia are drier, and if we had a few inches less rainfall each year we would be classed as an 'arid zone'.
The summer of 2012 was exceptionally wet everywhere in the UK. But in Kent, it was no wetter than a fairly ordinary summer in, say, Wales or Cornwall. what gardeners really noticed was how things which usually grow reasonably well, grew much, much , better. Despite the cool temperatures and the relative lack of sun, results for most crops were exceptionally good. What this really highlights is how dry our summers usually are. In fact, only parts of East Anglia are drier, and if we had a few inches less rainfall each year we would be classed as an 'arid zone'.
Local farmers are used to coping with hot dry summers, usually without extra water. Improve your soil to help it hold water.
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Though we often get a burst of wet weather in late summer - the so-called "English Monsoon", it is not uncommon to have a period of several weeks with no more that a spot of drizzle to lay the dust. Do everything you can to increase the ability of your soil to hold water - the better the soil holds it, the less you'll have to put on artificially. You are allowed to use a hose but not a sprinkler, so this really matters.
Check out our section "How do I to improve my soil" for tips on increasing the soil's water-holding properties (click on the green words to go there). |
LONG WARM AUTUMNS
Though spring can be surprisingly cold, autumn is often mild till quite late in the year. An 'Indian Summer' in October can give you bonus crops. When a seed packet says 'sow until July', you will, in most years, get decent results by sowing till mid August, as the crop will have extra weeks to grow in compared with other parts of Britain. By the same token, crops of late summer vegetables such as sweetcorn and courgettes may carry on for longer than you'd expect. It is most unusual to get even a ground frost before late in September, and mid-October is more like the commonest date.
For more about frost, click here.
Though spring can be surprisingly cold, autumn is often mild till quite late in the year. An 'Indian Summer' in October can give you bonus crops. When a seed packet says 'sow until July', you will, in most years, get decent results by sowing till mid August, as the crop will have extra weeks to grow in compared with other parts of Britain. By the same token, crops of late summer vegetables such as sweetcorn and courgettes may carry on for longer than you'd expect. It is most unusual to get even a ground frost before late in September, and mid-October is more like the commonest date.
For more about frost, click here.
