ROTOVATORS AND OTHER POWER TOOLS - the pros and cons.
It may seem obvious that using power tools takes the hard work out of gardening. Certainly there are some areas in which this is true, but when it comes to allotments the arguments aren't so clear-cut.
If you want to use power tools on your plot you will either have to transport them there every time you use them, or you will have to provide really secure storage to give you peace of mind that they won't be stolen. Of course, if your allotment is very close to where you live, transporting may not be a real problem. But there are other things to consider.
Most power tools are by their nature heavy. Using them is still quite hard work. If you have a back injury, you may find that handling a heavy rotovator or a petrol strimmer is as bad for your back as using manual tools. You may be better off looking at lightweight options like manual cultivators (the Wolf soil miller version is especially good) or rechargeable battery trimmers like the Bosch one.
If you want to use power tools on your plot you will either have to transport them there every time you use them, or you will have to provide really secure storage to give you peace of mind that they won't be stolen. Of course, if your allotment is very close to where you live, transporting may not be a real problem. But there are other things to consider.
Most power tools are by their nature heavy. Using them is still quite hard work. If you have a back injury, you may find that handling a heavy rotovator or a petrol strimmer is as bad for your back as using manual tools. You may be better off looking at lightweight options like manual cultivators (the Wolf soil miller version is especially good) or rechargeable battery trimmers like the Bosch one.
ROTOVATORS - what do they do?
Some people are under the impression that a rotovator is an alternative to digging. In fact, on most soils, digging is still desirable, and on heavy clay we would say a necessity to keep your soil structure good. Where rotovators come into their own is after the winter digging is done - as an alternative to the laborious process of forking over, and breaking down with cultivator and rake.
When you dig, you turn the top of the soil to the bottom and bring the soil which is a few inches down to the top. This buries baby weeds and organic matter, and incorporates air into the lower layers. Manure can be added to the lowest layers where it will be in the right place for roots. When a rotovator is used, the whole soil is mixed up. Plenty of air is incorporated but there is no burying of the top layer.
If you are using a rotovator instead of winter digging, you will need to obtain one which can turn the soil over to a good depth. Look for one with sharp curved tines that cut the soil. Some lightweight rotovators have L-shaped tines which are designed simply to break up the top layer. On clay soils, there is a danger that lightweight rotovators will simply hammer the lower layers of the soil into a hard pan which neither rainwater nor roots will easily penetrate. We have seen plots with such a pan only four inches down, making for very poor growth, after several years of using a lightweight rotovator instead of a spade.
TILLERS
Some light machines are actually described by the manufacturers as "tillers", which makes things clearer. These machines are intended only for breaking up the surface soil into a "tilth" after it has been winter dug and the structure crumbled by frost. The very lightweight ones, such as those made by Mantis, can be too light; they may bounce around on the surface instead of digging in, especially if you are on precisely those clay soils where you want their help most.
With all petrol-driven tools you have the various hassles of keeping fuel, starting them up and possible engine problems. Plus they are more expensive to buy in the first place. If you have one of the very small Ashford allotments being handed out these days, it may well not be worth your while. The decision is yours.
Some people are under the impression that a rotovator is an alternative to digging. In fact, on most soils, digging is still desirable, and on heavy clay we would say a necessity to keep your soil structure good. Where rotovators come into their own is after the winter digging is done - as an alternative to the laborious process of forking over, and breaking down with cultivator and rake.
When you dig, you turn the top of the soil to the bottom and bring the soil which is a few inches down to the top. This buries baby weeds and organic matter, and incorporates air into the lower layers. Manure can be added to the lowest layers where it will be in the right place for roots. When a rotovator is used, the whole soil is mixed up. Plenty of air is incorporated but there is no burying of the top layer.
If you are using a rotovator instead of winter digging, you will need to obtain one which can turn the soil over to a good depth. Look for one with sharp curved tines that cut the soil. Some lightweight rotovators have L-shaped tines which are designed simply to break up the top layer. On clay soils, there is a danger that lightweight rotovators will simply hammer the lower layers of the soil into a hard pan which neither rainwater nor roots will easily penetrate. We have seen plots with such a pan only four inches down, making for very poor growth, after several years of using a lightweight rotovator instead of a spade.
TILLERS
Some light machines are actually described by the manufacturers as "tillers", which makes things clearer. These machines are intended only for breaking up the surface soil into a "tilth" after it has been winter dug and the structure crumbled by frost. The very lightweight ones, such as those made by Mantis, can be too light; they may bounce around on the surface instead of digging in, especially if you are on precisely those clay soils where you want their help most.
With all petrol-driven tools you have the various hassles of keeping fuel, starting them up and possible engine problems. Plus they are more expensive to buy in the first place. If you have one of the very small Ashford allotments being handed out these days, it may well not be worth your while. The decision is yours.
GRASS SOLUTIONS
While some allotments sites elsewhere in the country have paths made of tarmac or concrete, Ashford allotments have grass edges. These need to be kept neatly cut; long grass harbours pests (especially slugs) and it will seed an unbelievable amount of weeds onto your plot if you give it a chance.
If you have a large plot with a lot of grass round the edges, a petrol mower may be worthwhile, especially if you can lay your hands on a cheap secondhand one. If you just have a few narrow paths - quite probably too narrow for most motor mowers - you will need an alternative. The easiest option is a rechargeable electric trimmer. This will cut grass on the flat and also neatly slice back your edges. Both the Bosch version and the Flymo trimmer/edger are fine. Don't waste you money on the B&Q own-brand version, however; we know a number of people who've tried it and cursed it, and even the employee in the B&Q advises customers not to buy it. Whatever you get, make sure it has a swivel head so it can cut both vertically and on the flat.
The Flymo version is very sturdy and has a lot of power; however it is quite heavy and you have to leave the whole machine on charge constantly while not in use. the charge lasts long enough to do all the cutting you could need.
The Bosch model is lighter. It doesn't cut quite such coarse vegetation, but has the advantage that it is just the detachable battery which is put on to charge. the cahrge doesn't seem to last so long, but you can buy spare batteries so you can charge both and take an extra one with you. PLEASE NOTE: links are for illustration purposes only and do not constitute an endorsement of that supplier. If you want to buy either of these items please do your own search for the best value.
Of course, old-fashioned edge cutters and cylinder push mower will do the job very nicely too. They are unlikely to tempt thieves and you should be able to pick them up cheaply.
While some allotments sites elsewhere in the country have paths made of tarmac or concrete, Ashford allotments have grass edges. These need to be kept neatly cut; long grass harbours pests (especially slugs) and it will seed an unbelievable amount of weeds onto your plot if you give it a chance.
If you have a large plot with a lot of grass round the edges, a petrol mower may be worthwhile, especially if you can lay your hands on a cheap secondhand one. If you just have a few narrow paths - quite probably too narrow for most motor mowers - you will need an alternative. The easiest option is a rechargeable electric trimmer. This will cut grass on the flat and also neatly slice back your edges. Both the Bosch version and the Flymo trimmer/edger are fine. Don't waste you money on the B&Q own-brand version, however; we know a number of people who've tried it and cursed it, and even the employee in the B&Q advises customers not to buy it. Whatever you get, make sure it has a swivel head so it can cut both vertically and on the flat.
The Flymo version is very sturdy and has a lot of power; however it is quite heavy and you have to leave the whole machine on charge constantly while not in use. the charge lasts long enough to do all the cutting you could need.
The Bosch model is lighter. It doesn't cut quite such coarse vegetation, but has the advantage that it is just the detachable battery which is put on to charge. the cahrge doesn't seem to last so long, but you can buy spare batteries so you can charge both and take an extra one with you. PLEASE NOTE: links are for illustration purposes only and do not constitute an endorsement of that supplier. If you want to buy either of these items please do your own search for the best value.
Of course, old-fashioned edge cutters and cylinder push mower will do the job very nicely too. They are unlikely to tempt thieves and you should be able to pick them up cheaply.
