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Leeks are easier to grow than people realise (forget all that fuss they make Oop North) and are a good winter staple.
Leeks don't need cosseting. Don't faff about with propagators or sowing the seed in pots, they do better in the open soil. Sow the seed in a bit of nicely prepared ground - a row 2ft (60cm) long will yield masses of plants, as many as an average family could eat even if they were leek-mad. RIGHT: Leeks cope better than most vegetables do with wet or waterlogged soil. |
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When the young leeks are about the thickness of a pencil, they can be carefully lifted ready for replanting in their final position. Shake the soil off and separate them. Trim the leaves at the top so there are no floppy bits to reach the soil; worms have a habit of trying to pull these bits in and the leeks don't benefit from it. Many experts say trim the roots slightly too, leavig them about one inch (2-3cm) long. This isn't as important as trimming the leaves.
You should have a well-fertilised bit of ground ready for them. There are now two ways of proceeding.
1. Using a spade or big hoe, make a trench about 6ins wide (15cm) and about 4-6ins deep (10-15cm). Use a dibber to make modest holes, drop the leeks in and water from a can. You don't need to refill the hole, mind - the water will do the trick.
2. Just use a dibber to make a hole about 4ins (10cm) deep and drop the leek seedling in, watering in as above.
The first method works best on heavy soil, where it's hard to get the dibber in deep enough, or if your seedlings are a bit short for the second method and would vanish down the hole! The first method also makes watering in dry weather easier, as the water stays in the trench.
You should have a well-fertilised bit of ground ready for them. There are now two ways of proceeding.
1. Using a spade or big hoe, make a trench about 6ins wide (15cm) and about 4-6ins deep (10-15cm). Use a dibber to make modest holes, drop the leeks in and water from a can. You don't need to refill the hole, mind - the water will do the trick.
2. Just use a dibber to make a hole about 4ins (10cm) deep and drop the leek seedling in, watering in as above.
The first method works best on heavy soil, where it's hard to get the dibber in deep enough, or if your seedlings are a bit short for the second method and would vanish down the hole! The first method also makes watering in dry weather easier, as the water stays in the trench.
Leeks used to be really trouble-free, but a few niggles have started to rear their ugly heads. Leek moth, a problem in the Midlands, thankfully hasn't been seen this far south yet. Rust, a fungal disease, has been a real so-and-so in the last few years though. There is no available chemical treatment, so help avoid this and other fungal problems that affect the onion family by what they call "cultural methods". This doesn't mean taking them to the ballet, it means be careful how you grow them . . .
- Rotate your crops properly. Leek rust also affects garlic, so bear that in mind when planning your planting. If you can remember to grow them in a different part of the patch when the rotation comes round again, that will give the soil double time to get rid of the spores.Lime the soil. Leeks, like other members of the onion family, like lime and they fit naturally into your rotation scheme with cabbages.
- Space them far enough apart. Crowding the plants is asking for trouble. If you can plant them a foot apart all the better - this reduces the extent to which the leaves touch.
- Don't use too much high-nitrate feed. Lush growth is more vulnerable
- Trim the tops of the leaves of seedlings before planting so they don't trail on the ground.
- Keep a sharp eye on the plants and, if (ie when) you see the classic white spots of rust - they go orange later, hence the name - remove them immediately and bin or burn them. Sometimes you end up taking rather a lot of leaves off, and in this case a liquid feed is a good idea to help the plants recover.
- Experts tip: to reduce leek rust problems, water leeks in the morning so the sun can dry the leaves. Water no more than necessary but don't let the plants go dry.
The bad news about leek rust
Leek rust is always worse after a wet winter. Or a wet summer the year before. So it's no surprise that this year it's a nightmare. Unfortunately there is no chemical (not even fancy organic stuff) available to control leek rust. After hours researching on line, all we could find was articles from commercial growers the world over wailing about how the professional fungicides they were using (so much stronger than the ones amateur gardeners can buy) were no use at all. As commercial garlic crops are affected by the same fungus, I have no doubt that the big multinational agrochemical companies are frantically working to find a cure, in the sure and certain knowledge that they will make billions from growers. So we can hope to see something in due course, but that's no consolation now.
Leek rust is always worse after a wet winter. Or a wet summer the year before. So it's no surprise that this year it's a nightmare. Unfortunately there is no chemical (not even fancy organic stuff) available to control leek rust. After hours researching on line, all we could find was articles from commercial growers the world over wailing about how the professional fungicides they were using (so much stronger than the ones amateur gardeners can buy) were no use at all. As commercial garlic crops are affected by the same fungus, I have no doubt that the big multinational agrochemical companies are frantically working to find a cure, in the sure and certain knowledge that they will make billions from growers. So we can hope to see something in due course, but that's no consolation now.
